Munich to Venice - From Eng to Wolkenstein

The "Traumpfad München-Venedig" is one of the classic Alpine long-distance routes, running from Munich across the Karwendel, the Tuxer Alps, the Zillertal Alps and the Dolomites down to the Adriatic. Several guidebooks cover it, and the full route takes around 30 days. We decided to hike a section of it over 12 days.

Total length: 191kmAccumulated height: 13.300mDuration: 12 days

Elevation profile - 2023-muc-venedig5001.0001.5002.0002.5000 km50 km100 km150 km200 kmunder 5%5-12%12-20%over 20%
Elevation profile

We travelled from Munich to Lenggries by train and changed there to the bus with Eng as its final destination.

Day Trips

Day 1 - Eng to Karwendelhaus

Length: 16kmAccumulated height: 1.200m

The first day brought light rain, cold air and fog. At our first stop, the Falkenhütte, we therefore only paused briefly for a drink before pushing on to the Karwendelhaus.

The Karwendelhaus was extremely busy and it was hard to find a free seat for dinner. We got a meal in the end and got ready for the next day.

The Eng valley below the Karwendel walls
The Eng valley below the Karwendel walls

Day 2 - Karwendelhaus to Hallerangerhaus

Length: 15kmAccumulated height: 1.450m

The ascent towards the Birkkarspitze is already demanding because of its steepness, but the real surprise came on the descent. I had assumed the Munich to Venice trail was a family-friendly route; this stage made it clear that it is a serious mountain hike, especially with a fully loaded pack. The trekking poles proved invaluable on the way down.

Karwendel panorama on the ascent towards the Birkkarspitze
Karwendel panorama on the ascent towards the Birkkarspitze

Day 3 - Hallerangerhaus to Glungezer Hütte

Length: 20kmAccumulated height: 1.100m

A more relaxed day, although rain was moving in and we were unsure how the next stage would work out. The Glungezer Hütte is charming and simple, with no showers, but a cosy place to stay.

A Biergarten along the way - closed when we passed by
A Biergarten along the way - closed when we passed by

Day 4 - Glungezer Hütte to Lizumer Hütte

Length: 10kmAccumulated height: 650m

This day did not go as planned. Over dinner the evening before we were told that the normal route to the Lizumer Hütte was impassable after storms and heavy snow, and too dangerous to attempt. There was no sensible alternative on foot, so almost everyone took the cable car down, continued by taxi and hiked the remaining section to the hut.

Alpine pastures on the way to the Lizumer Hütte
Alpine pastures on the way to the Lizumer Hütte

Day 5 - Lizumer Hütte to Tuxer Jochhaus

Length: 16kmAccumulated height: 1.200m

The normal trail was not recommended either, again because of lingering snow. Since the previous day had already turned into an unplanned taxi transfer, we - and a few others - decided to walk the trail to the Tuxer Jochhaus anyway. As the photo shows, the snow made it hard to find the trail, and GPS was essential because the waymarks were almost completely covered.

The weather improved during the day, though at times the fog was so dense that visibility was down to about ten metres.

The location of the Tuxer Jochhaus sounds promising, but the hut itself could do with some modernisation, both in its facilities and in its food.

Snow at the pass - the waymarks were barely visible
Snow at the pass - the waymarks were barely visible

Day 6 - Tuxer Jochhaus to Olpererhütte

Length: 15kmAccumulated height: 900m

The rain had cleared and we were expecting a beautiful day. The original plan was to hike to the Dominikushütte at the Schlegeisspeicher, since the Olpererhütte was fully booked. On a second check, however, a few beds had become available at the Olpererhütte - the hut with the famous suspension bridge and the Schlegeisspeicher in the background.

Below the Tuxer Joch, the glaciers of the Zillertal Alps ahead
Below the Tuxer Joch, the glaciers of the Zillertal Alps ahead

Day 7 - Olpererhütte to Gasthof Stein

Length: 14kmAccumulated height: 420m

Time to cross the border into Italy, and the weather started to warm up. The Gasthof Stein is one of the few places to stay in this area. Room, dinner and breakfast were all excellent.

The Schlegeisspeicher seen from the Olpererhütte
The Schlegeisspeicher seen from the Olpererhütte

Day 8 - Gasthof Stein to Gasthof Brugger / Pfunders

Length: 21kmAccumulated height: 1.150m

One of the easier days, although some hikers take the bus to shorten it.

Morning in the South Tyrolean valleys on the way to Pfunders
Morning in the South Tyrolean valleys on the way to Pfunders

Day 9 - Pfunders to Kreuzwiesenalm

Length: 27kmAccumulated height: 1.400m

A long day, but not overly strenuous. The Kreuzwiesenalm is a beautiful spot and correspondingly busy, as it can be reached by car by day hikers. They make their own cheese, which we made extensive use of at breakfast.

Evening on the Lüsner Alm, the Dolomites ahead
Evening on the Lüsner Alm, the Dolomites ahead

Day 10 - Kreuzwiesenalm to Schlüterhütte

Length: 25kmAccumulated height: 1.300m

A rest stop on the high plateau on the way to the Schlüterhütte
A rest stop on the high plateau on the way to the Schlüterhütte

Day 11 - Schlüterhütte to Puezhütte

Length: 11kmAccumulated height: 780m

The Puezhütte is one of the few huts that can only be supplied by helicopter, which is reflected in slightly higher prices. It was fully booked, down to the emergency dormitory, as several hikers had been caught out by an approaching storm and needed a place for the night.

Storm clouds gathering over the Puez plateau
Storm clouds gathering over the Puez plateau

Day 12 - Puezhütte to Wolkenstein

Length: 12kmAccumulated height: 400m

On our last day we left the Munich to Venice trail at the Grödner Joch and descended to Wolkenstein. From there we took the bus down to the valley and the train back to Munich. Finishing felt bittersweet - we had got used to hiking every day, even in less than ideal weather.

Between the Dolomite walls on the final descent
Between the Dolomite walls on the final descent

Our Learnings

  • This is not a family-friendly walking route. Several stages are proper mountain terrain, and a heavy pack changes the descents considerably - trekking poles are worth their weight
  • In July there can still be snow on the higher sections. Two of our stages were affected, and on one of them the waymarks were invisible - carry the track on a phone or watch
  • Huts in the Dolomites fill up quickly, especially when the weather turns. Book ahead, and check again later: cancellations do free up beds
  • The stages between Pfunders and the Dolomites are long rather than steep - 25 to 27km days are the norm there
  • Ending at the Grödner Joch and descending to Wolkenstein is a practical place to break off the route, with good bus and train connections back to Munich