Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls with a tent - August 2019

The Laugavegur is Iceland's best-known trekking route, leading from the geothermal area of Landmannalaugar through rhyolite mountains, black lava deserts and glacial rivers to the birch woods of Þórsmörk. Adding the Fimmvörðuháls trail extends the route over the pass between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers and down to Skógar, past an almost uninterrupted chain of waterfalls.

Total length: ~80km (Laugavegur ~55km, Fimmvörðuháls ~25km)Duration: 5 days

How to get there

International flights arrive at Keflavík, about 50km from Reykjavík, and the capital is the natural base for onward travel.

To reach the highlands, several companies run daily buses to Landmannalaugar, Langidalur and Skógar. Useful starting points are the general bus overview and Sterna Travel. Note that these are seasonal services - outside the summer months the schedule thins out considerably.

We carried our own tent and stayed in huts on two of the nights. Huts have to be booked well in advance; camping does not require a reservation, but the pitches are exposed.

Day Trips

Day 1 - Reykjavík to Hrafntinnusker

Bus from Reykjavík to Landmannalaugar, then hiking up to Hrafntinnusker at roughly 1.000m - the highest camp on the route. We slept in the tent. It was very cold, around 0°C, and so windy that I half expected the tent to give way. Fortunately nothing happened, but this is the night that decides whether your equipment is up to the job.

Day 2 - Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

On to Álftavatn, where we stayed in the hut because it could be booked in advance. There is also a small restaurant at Álftavatn if you are running low on food - just be aware that it is extremely expensive.

Day 3 - Álftavatn to Emstrur

Again a night in the tent. If you arrive early enough you can find pitches that are completely sheltered from the wind, which makes a real difference. There is also a shelter tent where you can sit and cook.

Day 4 - Emstrur to Langidalur

We stayed in the hut here as well, although the camping area is genuinely nice - green, with plenty of space. There is a small shop too.

Day 5 - Langidalur to Skógar

We did the Fimmvörðuháls in a single day. Originally I had wanted to stay overnight in one of the two huts on the pass, but they could not be booked. We did not regret doing it in one push: there is little to do up at the huts, it is simply too cold to sit outside, and in good conditions the crossing is comfortably manageable in a day. With decent weather this is probably the most spectacular part of the entire journey.

Our Learnings

1. The route is at its best if you continue from the Laugavegur onto the Fimmvörðuháls trail. The landscape becomes even more dramatic and the descent to Skógar passes a succession of waterfalls unlike anything else
2. Walk from north to south. The prevailing wind comes from the north, and hiking into it is far more exhausting and much colder
3. The Fimmvörðuháls can be done in one long day, and most people do. Start early and carry enough food. The descent from the huts on the pass is easy walking but still takes time - we left Langidalur at 8:30 and reached the campsite in Skógar at 19:00, and we were stopping constantly for photographs
4. Weather, not distance, is the limiting factor on this route. Be prepared to sit out a day, and do not underestimate the wind at Hrafntinnusker

Food on the way

There is now a restaurant at Álftavatn serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is small and very expensive. There is also a small shop in Langidalur, which is the last chance to restock if you continue over the Fimmvörðuháls to Skógar.

Water is not a problem - there is plenty of it along the way. We recommend carrying at least one litre.

Packing list (extract)

Hiking

• Sturdy trekking boots, plus a second lightweight pair or sandals for the four river crossings and for wearing at the huts and campsites. If you are sensitive to cold water, neoprene socks help
• The rivers are glacial meltwater and rise during the day - crossing early is easier

Food

• Per day and for two people we calculated roughly: 100g nuts, 40g dried meat, 100g rolled oats, 100g sesame snacks, 125g noodles. The huts sometimes sell chocolate bars or crisps if you run short, but do not rely on it - carry enough food

Sleeping

• Tent - lightweight (around 2kg) but genuinely robust against rain and wind. Do not underestimate the wind at night
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of about 0°C if you are camping
• Earplugs - the noise of the wind alone is reason enough

Gallery